We of the Never Never ( take two )

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“Called the Never-Never, the Maluka loved to say, because they who have lived in it and loved it, Never-Never voluntarily leave it.”

― Jeannie Gunn, We of the Never Never

We had just completed our audio book of "We of the Never Never" when we reached Mataranka in the region where it is mostly set. We enjoyed the book, even with the dated language and attitudes. We stayed ar Bitter Springs and floated down the thermal spring fed creek many times. It was busy, but it was still amazing, warm bright blue green water, with palms overhanging. 





After 5 one night stays in a row we decided to camp at Bitter Springs for 4 nights. Besides floating down the springs we did a few walks by the Roper river in the Elsey National Park, visited the other spring which is more like a pool having been dammed by servicemen in WW2. We also visted the replica homestead from WOTNN and a few of the graves of characters from the book.




The other highlight of Mataranka was the Nathan Whippy show. It started with AC/DC, ended with fiery whips, and included the natural showman whipping along with a Taylor Swift number. 



From Mataranka we travelled to Katherine and to the Gorge in the Nitmiluk National Park. We indulged in a sunset cruise which travelled up the course of the Katherine river through the first gorge then docked and we walked past rock art to second the gorge boarded another  boat and cruised through that narrower and even more spectacular gorge before returning t the first gorge for an excellent dinner while the sun set.




That  night was hot and humid ( min 20 ) and the next day was getting to 34 so we decided  to walk early hitting the trail before 0800 to climb up to a lookout over the gorge and walk back along the plateau.  We were back, and pretty much done in, by 1030 so just hung around the pool.


The next day we got up early again to do a half day canoe. They ferried us to the start of the second gorge, we paddled up the length (2.4 km) where we then had to do a portage up a small rapid into the third gorge. We travelled up its length (1.0 km) with a few stops for swims, climbs up rocks and for Alison to meet a small water snake as it brushed past her. We did the return journey and finally walked back to our campsite exhausted but exhilarated.





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