John and Alisons Anti-Clockwise Odyssey

“Called the Never-Never, the Maluka loved to say, because they who have lived in it and loved it, Never-Never voluntarily leave it.” ― Jeannie Gunn, We of the Never Never We had just completed our audio book of "We of the Never Never" when we reached Mataranka in the region where it is mostly set. We enjoyed the book, even with the dated language and attitudes. We stayed ar Bitter Springs and floated down the thermal spring fed creek many times. It was busy, but it was still amazing, warm bright blue green water, with palms overhanging.  After 5 one night stays in a row we decided to camp at Bitter Springs for 4 nights. Besides floating down the springs we did a few walks by the Roper river in the Elsey National Park, visited the other spring which is more like a pool having been dammed by servicemen in WW2. We also visted the replica homestead from WOTNN and a few of the graves of characters from the book. The other highlight of Mataranka was the Nathan Whippy show. It start...

First  some statistics.  Kilometres Travelled 11728 Screws in tyres 1 Bird species identified 35 Sandy Creeks crossed Innumerable Windscreen stone chips 3 Favourite pub Chillagoe Completed Audio books 5 Incredible sunsets Many We had an overnight at Leichart Lagoon a nice little site by a lagoon full of birds, crocs, snakes etc. We drew up the drawbridge on the camper that night.  We then travelled through Normanton to Karumba on the gulf. We had three nice nights there , we did the famous sunset pub then a sunset cruise where we saw many birds, and crocs and enjoyed the free flowing wine which made for a very convivial atmosphere with out fellow travellers.  From there the state of the Savannah  Way across the top was not great so we dropped back down to Gregory  Downs were we had a nice free camp by the palm fringed river. To our disappointment Lawn Hill Gorge is still...

First some good bits. From our great site at Lake Tinaroo we started west. We pulled in at Undarra to do the Lava Tube tour. This  is a a must do. Amazing geology and landscape, and a well run, and informative  tour. We loved it there and wished we had more time but we had a booking at Talaroo Hot Springs. Talaroo was an Indigenous run site at an old station near some hot rock springs by the Einasleigh River.  Great campsite with friendly communal fires and a enjoyable tour by a young Ewamian guide who explained the history and culture of the Springs followed with a soak in a pool fed by the Springs We  had a slap up dinner for our 36th wedding anniversary. See photo below. After a few nights  at Talaroo we headed out excited for our next stop in Cobbold Gorge. This is where things fell apart. Not far from Talaroo  on the road to Georgetown we heard a loud screeching noise from the car wheel. I looked for a rock but couldn't find anything, so we...